Savogno Hut |
Driving along the main road of the Maloja Pass, a few km after Chiavenna, it is
common to slow down to see the wonderful Acqua Fraggia twin waterfalls on the
left hand (see picture below), but just few people notice the bell tower and the
village built on the top of a hill beyond the waterfalls: Savogno.
There are no roads getting there, but many paths and some of the most famous are
listed below:
- From Borgonovo di Piuro (403mt): 1:10 hours, mule track with steps.
At the foot of the waterfalls there is a parking space and a path starting on
the right hand and leading at Sarlone. The mule track (just follow the
indicators) to Savogno begins there on the left hand.
The track is broad and its slope is steady; some steps ease the climb among
cherry trees and then chestnuts.
I really don't want to frighten you; but there are 2886 steps. Why don't you
count them?
Once at Stalle Ronchi, it's time to have a rest. A traditional fountain with
three basins hollowed out in the rock may be seen and then, with a short
deviation, a stone-built house, very different from the others, may be reached.
There you can find a winepress with a wooden arm 12mt long, and dating back to
1706. Further on the way leads to the wall before the church of Savogno, then
turns left and the hut is found.
- From S. Abbondio di Piuro (431mt): 1:10 hours, path B 31
S. Abbondio is a little village near the waterfalls and characterized by a
little church. It hosts a noteworthy museum containing remains from old Piuro,
the village which was buried underneath a landslide in 1618.
After some sharp bends the road ends in an open area where parking space is
found.
The mule track begins right there and, skirting the torrent, leads to the Crana
Valley and to a horse-chestnut wood. At Crotto* Canoa, accessible after a right
hand turn and dating back to the XVII century, 14 stony tables and their benches
may be admired. The track then winds through the wood and after passing by a
little chapel, goes uphill along the Acqua Fraggia Valley, which is on the right
hand side.
The destination is reached by crossing a bridge and following the way up to the
mule track with steps, described in the previous itinerary.
- From Villa di Chiavenna (630mt): 1:20 hours, path B23
Just after the City Hall in the centre of Villa, on the left hand side,
there is a little chapel where the mule track to Savogno begins (indicated by
the pointed forefinger). It soon joins an unpaved road leading on the left hand
to the sports ground and to Crotti* di Motta.
There are two alternative ways at this point: either continue along the same
road, or continue along the mule track skirting the road on the left through
dry-stone low walls and old farmhouses.
They become a single unpaved road leading to some crossroads, where you turn
right, and the original path is joined soon afterwards. The land climbing
through woods of chestnut and birch trees is sometimes flat and sometimes
uphill, and as it becomes steeper, some steps built on the mule track ease the
climb.
Further on there is a land-slide area, surrounded by trees.
On the left the path B 24, climbing from S. Croce, joins our route. Savogno is
reached going downhill, after a little votive chapel, dedicated to the Sacred
Heart. The hut is located beyond the village centre.
Once at the destination it's time to have a rest, but a walk down the narrow
roads, amongst almost completely deserted old houses, would be interesting
later.
A note has to be made about the church, in front of which a bronze bust reminds
people that don Luigi Guanella was priest there.
The panoramic view over Piuro and the Aurosina Valley is wonderful and, walking
down the alleyways gives you a real feeling of the difficult but at the same
time simple life that must have been lived there.
The journey back in time continues to Dasile (1032mt), 20 minutes uphill (see
picture below).
Houses are simpler there and everything is in order as if the village was
abandoned only a few days ago, and not in the 60's.
* Crotto/i= antique, natural cellars nowadays converted into characteristic taverns.
EXCURSIONS STARTING FROM THE HUT:
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Picture of the hut Rainbow in the Acqua Fraggia waterfall Dasile: rest looking at the panorama |